By Hilary Metcalfe
The Problem With the Advice We’re Given
For most of my life, I was told the same thing about my skin: “Use stronger products.”
In my teens, dermatologists prescribed benzoyl peroxide for my breakouts. In my twenties, it was retinoids. After having my daughter, I was told to “just exfoliate more” when postpartum sensitivity left my face red and raw. Every stage of life, the answer seemed to be the same: more actives, more aggression.
But here’s what really happened: the stronger the actives, the more fragile my skin became. Breakouts calmed briefly, but redness lingered. Post-acne marks darkened. My barrier never felt steady. What I needed wasn’t more stripping.
Hormonal Skin Is Different
Hormonal skin doesn’t play by the same rules as “normal” skin. Oestrogen, progesterone, and androgens change everything:
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During the cycle, oil surges before menstruation create fertile ground for acne.
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Postpartum, estrogen drops thin the barrier, leaving skin vulnerable to irritation and eczema.
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Perimenopause, declining oestrogen, tilts the immune system toward pro-inflammatory states, fuelling redness and pigmentation.
In each case, skin isn’t just “sensitive”, it’s primed for inflammation. That’s why harsh actives so often backfire: they inflame an already inflamed system.
Inflammation vs. Irritation
Most people confuse irritation with inflammation. Irritation is stinging, itching, or burning after applying a product, a surface-level reaction. Inflammation is deeper: a chronic immune response involving cytokines, oxidative stress, and microbiome imbalance.
Hormonal skin is especially vulnerable to this hidden inflammation, also called inflammageing. Over time, it weakens collagen, triggers pigmentation, and keeps skin locked in cycles of breakouts or redness. Harsh actives may mask the surface but often worsen this underlying process.
The Prebiotic Serum Solution
Prebiotic serums take a different approach. Instead of stripping away, they feed and rebalance.
In the Active Nutrient Serum, the combination of prebiotics, seaweed ferments, and adaptogens was designed specifically for hormonally reactive skin:
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Prebiotics feed beneficial bacteria like S. epidermidis, which produce antimicrobial peptides and fatty acids that naturally suppress acne-causing strains.
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Seaweed extracts deliver fucoidans, phlorotannins, and peptides that calm cytokine activity, inhibit collagen-degrading enzymes, and protect against oxidative stress.
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Hyaluronic acid restores hydration lost through inflammation-driven transepidermal water loss (TEWL), creating a stable environment for barrier repair.
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Adaptogens (pine bark, calendula, aloe vera) modulate stress-induced inflammation, reducing redness and pigmentation.
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Rosehip oil + botanical lipids rebuild barrier lipids thinned by hormonal changes, improving resilience.
Why Support Works Better Than Suppression
The difference is simple:
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Harsh actives → force change by irritating skin into cell turnover or killing microbes broadly. Relief is short-lived, and the cycle often rebounds.
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Prebiotic serums → cultivate balance by feeding protective microbes, reducing inflammation, and strengthening barriers. The results build slowly but last, because they address root causes.
Clinical studies now back this approach: topical prebiotics improve microbial diversity, hydration, and sensitivity in acne and rosacea patients. Marine peptide complexes improve elasticity by ~20% in 8 weeks. Pine bark extract reduces pigmentation by 15–20% in 12 weeks.
For women with sensitive, hormonal skin, the advice to “use stronger actives” misses the point. We don’t need more stripping or suppression, we need solutions that recognise the unique biology of our skin.
That’s why I created the Active Nutrient Serum. It’s not about quick fixes. It’s about rebuilding the conditions for balance, feeding good microbes, calming inflammation, restoring resilience.
ABOUT HILARY
Hilary is the Co-Founder of the SABI, a Holistic Nutritionist, natural, whole foods Chef, product developer and advocate for women getting to know their bodies, cycles and selves better. Born in Los Angeles, California and raised in Baja California, Mexico, she now lives in Los Cabos with her partner Kees, a curly-tailed rescue dog from Curacao, Flint and her rainbow babies Paloma and Bea.
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HORMONAL & PROUD
Created as a brand to help women navigate the toughest moments in pregnancy, childbirth, postpartum — and practically every stage of life, the SABI aims to change the narrative around our hormones from one of taboo, embarrassment and loneliness, to awareness and even pride. Much more than a wellness brand, SABI offers a carefully crafted line of products to carry you through your hormonal journey; a set of rituals, supportive tools, and ancient herbal remedies that have been tested time and again by women and now, backed by medicine. SABI is a blend of science and nature conceived by women who have experienced the joys and deep implications of bringing a child into the world, the pains of a heavy and difficult period, miscarriage and difficulty conceiving
Here is an invitation to get to know your body and its cycles better and to really understand what is going on inside. Learn to use your hormonal cycle to your advantage no matter your stage of life, and know that you can always support and balance your hormone levels. Look for the right sources of information, know that there is help, and know that you’re supported.
DISCLAIMER
The SABI blog and articles are not meant to instruct or advise on medical or health conditions, but to inform. The information and opinions presented here do not substitute professional medical advice or consultations with healthcare professionals for your unique situation.
References
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Fisher, G. J., et al. (2002). Mechanisms of photoaging and chronological skin aging. Arch Dermatol.
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Byrd, A. L., Belkaid, Y., & Segre, J. A. (2018). The human skin microbiome. Nat Rev Microbiol, 16(3), 143–155.
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Journal of Integrative Dermatology. (2023). Topical prebiotics and their role in dermatology.
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Kim, S. K., et al. (2018). Antioxidant activities of marine algae and fermented derivatives. Mar Drugs.
Maritim, A. C., et al. (2003). Antioxidant properties of pine bark extract. Toxicology.
