Skincare is deeply personal—what works wonders for one person might not suit another.
Collagen production naturally declines with age, by about 1% per year after your 20s, and hormonal shifts, from pregnancy to perimenopause, can accelerate this process. That’s why understanding what collagen creams can (and can’t) do is so key.
When it comes to collagen creams, the promises of plumper, firmer skin sound amazing, but do they live up to the hype? And are there any downsides you should know about?
I’ve been on both sides of the collagen cream journey: hopeful and sceptical.
I went deep into researching the benefits and risks while developing our Active Nutrient Serum and Prebiotic Cream, and it opened my eyes.
Here’s the breakdown: benefits, potential side effects, and all.
Xx,
Hilary
Co-Founder of The SABI—a wellness brand built from the inside out.
The Quick Takeaways
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Can improve hydration and surface firmness
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Can’t actually deliver collagen into the skin
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Works best when paired with a consistent skincare routine
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The real game-changer: ingredients that support collagen production, not fake replacements
Let’s Clear This Up: Can Collagen Creams Really Work?
Here’s the truth: collagen molecules are too large to be absorbed by your skin.
They sit on the surface and act more like a moisturiser than a collagen replacement.
Collagen’s molecular weight is typically over 300,000 Daltons. For reference, your skin can only absorb molecules under 500 Daltons (so, very small).
So when you apply a cream with collagen listed on the label, unless it’s hydrolysed or paired with skin-penetrating peptides, your skin isn’t “rebuilding” collagen. It’s simply getting a nice, moisturising layer.
What Actually Works to Support Collagen Production?
That’s what we asked ourselves while formulating our Prebiotic Cream at The SABI.
Instead of adding ineffective collagen ingredients, we chose bioactive compounds that help your skin create more of its own collagen, while protecting the skin barrier and restoring hydration.
The SABI’s Collagen-Supportive Heroes:
|
Ingredient |
What It Does |
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Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid) |
Attracts and retains moisture to keep skin plump and supple. Hydration is essential for collagen production. |
|
Aloe Vera (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice) |
Calms inflammation, aids wound healing, and supplies polysaccharides that support fibroblasts (the collagen-producing cells). |
|
Seaweed Ferments (Laminaria, etc.) |
Provide trace minerals, amino acids, and antioxidants to nourish the skin and support collagen and elastin. |
|
Prebiotics |
Feed the skin’s microbiome, reduce inflammation, and help the skin barrier stay strong and resilient. |
The Benefits of a Collagen-Supportive Cream (Without the Collagen)
1. Restores Elasticity
Collagen gives your skin its bounce. But instead of adding it topically (where it won’t be absorbed), we focus on stimulating your skin’s own natural production: using hydration, nourishment, and microbiome balance to support this from the inside out.
I experienced accelerated ageing postpartum due to inflammation and nutrient depletion. What helped wasn’t applying collagen—it was giving my skin what it needed to recover and rebuild: hydration, rest, and nutrient support.
2. Deep Hydration
Our Prebiotic Cream is rich in humectants like hyaluronic acid from natural, plant-based sources, and aloe, which draw moisture deep into the skin and lock it in. This is what gives that fresh, dewy, “plump” look naturally, no filler effect needed.
3. Protects Your Skin Barrier
A healthy skin barrier is essential for long-term firmness and radiance. Prebiotics feed the good bacteria on your skin, helping reduce inflammation, redness, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). A well-supported microbiome improves hydration and texture, making your skin feel stronger and more supple (Knackstedt et al., 2020).
The Potential Side Effects of Collagen Creams (and Any Active Skincare)
Even the best skincare isn’t perfect for everyone. Here's what to keep in mind:
1. Initial Breakouts
When introducing any new formula, especially during hormonal fluctuations, some people experience mild breakouts. This is often part of the skin adjusting and usually clears within a week or two.
2. Sensitivity to Fragrance or Preservatives
Some collagen creams contain artificial fragrance or harsh preservatives that can trigger reactions in sensitive or hormonally reactive skin and contribute to hormonal imbalance. That’s why our formulas are perfume-free, and only lightly scented with certified organic essential oils designed to be safe for even reactive skin types.
3. Unrealistic Expectations
Collagen creams can’t rebuild your dermis. They work with your skin’s natural renewal cycle, which takes about 28–40 days. Results require consistent use. In my case, it took about 8 weeks to see real changes in tone and firmness.
Tips to Make Any Collagen-Supportive Routine Work Better
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Start Slowly: Use once daily at first, especially during periods of hormonal change (like pregnancy, postpartum, or perimenopause).
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Layer Smartly: Apply after cleansing and serums, and before sunscreen in the morning or as the final step at night.
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Use Sunscreen Daily: UV exposure breaks down collagen faster than any other factor. Daily SPF is essential.
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Support from Within: Eat collagen-rich foods (bone broth, wild-caught fish, egg whites), and consider hydrolysed collagen supplements—especially if they’re from grass-fed or sustainably sourced animals.
If You Do Want to Use a Collagen Cream, Here’s What to Look For:
If you're curious about collagen in your skincare, be selective. Look for:
|
INCI Name |
What It Means |
Effectiveness |
|
Hydrolyzed Collagen |
Collagen broken into smaller peptides |
Hydrating, but limited penetration |
|
Soluble Collagen |
Water-soluble native collagen |
Moisturizing only |
|
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 |
A synthetic peptide that mimics collagen production signals |
Proven to support collagen production |
|
Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4) |
Anti-aging peptide |
Promotes collagen and elasticity over time |
Avoid vague terms like “collagen-infused” if no functional peptides or hydrolysed collagen are listed.
The Honest Truth
Collagen creams can offer hydration and surface-level smoothing, but they won’t rebuild your skin's structure. What matters more is supporting your skin’s natural processes, especially during times of hormonal change.
That’s why we formulated our Prebiotic Cream and Active Nutrient Serum not with collagen, but with deeply hydrating, barrier-restoring, and microbiome-supporting ingredients that work in harmony with your body.
They’ve become a daily ritual in my routine, and my skin feels stronger, softer, and more supported because of it.
Want to dive deeper?
ABOUT HILARY
Hilary is the Co-Founder of the SABI, a Holistic Nutritionist, natural, whole foods Chef, product developer and advocate for women getting to know their bodies, cycles and selves better. Born in Los Angeles, California and raised in Baja California, Mexico, she now lives in Los Cabos with her partner Kees, a curly-tailed rescue dog from Curacao, Flint and her rainbow babies Paloma and Bea.
REFERENCES
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Proksch, E., Schunck, M. (2014). "Collagen peptides and elasticity improvements." Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24220089/
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Watson, R. E., Griffiths, C. E. (2014). "Collagen and skin aging." Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24787900/
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Knackstedt, R., Gatherwright, J. (2020). "Prebiotics and microbiome balance in skincare." Advances in Wound Care. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31929797/
HORMONAL & PROUD
Created as a brand to help women navigate the toughest moments in pregnancy, childbirth, postpartum — and practically every stage of life –– The SABI aims to change the narrative around our hormones from one of taboo, embarrassment, and loneliness to awareness and pride. As more than a wellness brand, The SABI offers a carefully-crafted line of products to carry you through your hormonal journey, including rituals, supportive tools, and ancient herbal remedies that have been tested time and again by women and now backed by medicine. The SABI is a blend of science and nature conceived by women who have experienced the joys and deep struggles of bringing a child into the world, the pains of a heavy, difficult period, miscarriage, and fertility struggles.
We offer you an invitation to get to know your body and its cycles better –– an invitation to really understand what is going on inside. Learn to use your hormonal cycle to your advantage no matter your stage of life, and know that you can support and balance your hormone levels. Look for the right sources of information. Know that there is help, and know that you’re supported.
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DISCLAIMER
The SABI Journal, content and articles are not meant to instruct or advise on medical or health conditions, but to inform. The information and opinions presented here do not substitute professional medical advice or consultations with healthcare professionals for your unique situation.










